Inside the Lions’ Den,

The Economist 1843

Earlier this summer I followed a man called Abu al-Ajoud through the streets of Nablus, a Palestinian city in the West Bank. We walked in silence, occasionally ducking our heads to pass under an Ottomanarch. Eventually al-Ajoud stopped at an iron door, patted me down and led me into a dark room. Insidewas a screen displaying live cctv footage of the paths outside. We had arrived at the safe house.

“I’ve never spoken to a journalist before,” said al-Ajoud, 35, unsmiling. “I may regret it.” He took the bag withmy camera in it and put it in another room. Al-Ajoud (not his real name) is a member of Arin al-Usoud, or theLions’ Den, a Palestinian armed-resistance group based in the Israeli-occupied West Bank. Since it emerged last summer the Lions’ Den has claimed dozens of attacks, including the killing of an Israeli soldier in Jerusalem.

The West Bank, governed by the Palestinian Authority (PA), had been relatively peaceful since the end of the second intifada, an uprising that lasted from 2000-05. But in the past two years violence has escalated. In the first half of this year 114 Palestinians and 16 Israelis were killed in the West Bank (in the same period last year,57 Palestinians and two Israelis were killed). Much of the unrest has been driven by armed groups of young men, whose frustrations with the Israeli occupation and an enfeebled PA have reached breaking point. According to the Israeli army, last year there were 61 gun attacks by Palestinians on Israeli soldiers and civilians in and around Nablus, up from only three in 2020.

On July 3rd Israel launched its most aggressive assault on the West Bank in over two decades, in an attempt to crush the Jenin Brigades – a group of young militants based in Jenin refugee camp, an hour’s drive north of Nablus. Supported by drone strikes, hundreds of ground troops stormed the camp, looking for fighters, weapons and explosives. Twelve Palestinians were killed and dozens were wounded and captured. Israeli troops have now withdrawn from Jenin. Many Palestinians believe the Lions’ Den, and their home town of Nablus, is next on Israel’s hit list.

The Lions’ Den came to prominence in summer 2022, after Israeli soldiers killed an 18-year-old man from the city, Ibrahim Nablusi, who was responsible for a series of drive-by shootings aimed at Israelis. There had already been deadly raids in Nablus that year – in February, three Palestinian resistance fighters were shot dead. The founders of Lions’ Den wanted to create a group that united disaffected fighters who felt the current armed movement was too weak.

The PA reckons there are around a hundred fighters in Lions’ Den. Like the Jenin Brigades, it doesn’t seem tohave a clear organisational structure, nor is it affiliated to any political party or faction. What it does have is abrand: the Lions’ Den is the face of Gen Z Palestinian resistance. Before it got banned by TikTok, Lions’ Den posted footage of fighters shooting at Israeli soldiers, buses and taxis, and videos that demonstrated how to make a pipe bomb. Its Telegram channel, which features similar content, has over 250,000 followers.

In Nablus, souvenir shops sell Lions’ Den mugs, necklaces, trinkets and flags emblazoned with the group’slogo – Nablus’s An-Nasr mosque, garlanded by two assault rifles and an Islamic crescent – and the faces of slain fighters. Memorabilia like this is generally associated with more established militant groups; that it exists already is a sign of how quickly the Lions’ Den has penetrated the public consciousness. In the old town, posters of young men are plastered over doors, shop windows, arches and road signs. If you listen carefully, you can hear songs praying for the souls of martyrs. It’s usually only after they die that the identities of Lions’ Den masked fighters are revealed.

Al-Ajoud was not wearing a mask when we met, but it was still hard to make out what he looks like. The visor of his black baseball cap cast a shadow over his face, which was partially covered by a black beard that goes down to his chest.

“We have entered a new era of resistance,” al-Ajoud said as we sipped strong black coffee. “Each era has itsown men, its own battles.” The Lions’ Den is a more sophisticated organisation than the Israeli government would have people believe, he said. “The Israelis kill some youngsters and say that they are the leaders [of the Lions’ Den]. They are trying to make us look young and hopeless. But the real fighters are older, in their 20s and 30s.” It is the younger, inexperienced men who are more likely to die in raids, he said.

When al-Ajoud was 14, in 2002, he and a friend were hit by a shell from an Israeli tank. Al-Ajoud survived but his friend was killed instantly. It was a formative event: “Every fighter was inspired by the second intifada (uprising).”

At the time, Nablus was a centre of opposition. Armed and unarmed Palestinians jousted with the Israeli army’s tanks, armoured personnel carriers and Apache helicopters. The Israelis imposed strict curfews and house-to-house searches. Thousands of Palestinians were arrested and many homes were destroyed.

The peace that followed was an unhappy one. Memories of Israeli violence lingered, and dissatisfaction with living conditions in the occupied territories grew. Years of economic crisis have hamstrung businesses and people are finding it increasingly hard to make a living. It’s also difficult to travel around the region. During Israeli incursions in Nablus, the city can be closed off for days or even weeks. Ramallah, which should be only a 50-minute drive away, can take more than three hours to reach depending on the mood of the Israeli soldiers manning the checkpoints.

“We’re living in a prison…you have a whole generation, 25-year-olds, that have never seen the sea,” al-Ajoud said. Other young Palestinians I spoke to echoed his frustrations. “Since we have no sovereignty on the land,any plan smight be cancelled due to the occupation, invasion or checkpoints closing,”said Mawadda, a 27-year-old woman from Nablus, who works as a marketing manager. “In my work I move throughout the West Bank and this means hundreds of hours at the checkpoints, full of fear and anxiety.”

Were it not for the Israeli army’s giant red-and-white communications antennae, and the high-rise blocks of flats on its outskirts, Nablus would feel like the ancient Middle East. The narrow streets of the Old Town bustle with activity: vendors sell handicraft items, spices such as cardamom and traditional foods like knafeh, a sweet treat.

When I pulled out my notebook and camera, people scattered. The owner of a souvenir shop stood behind my shoulder watching me take notes.“It looks like Hebrew,” he said suspiciously.

The PA is barely visible here – unless you get a parking ticket. It is widely seen as corrupt and ineffective, a mere subcontractor for Israel. Polls of Palestinians show strong support for armed groups, and confirm that faith in the two-state solution, whereby Israel and a Palestinian state co-exist peacefully side by side, has plummeted. “People are fed up with the idea of peace and its ‘sweet promises’ and came to the conclusion that there is no peaceful solution,” one senior PA official told me. “The public saw the Lions’ Den as a creative idea. So they followed it and supported it.” Jawad, 28, said the group was a way for people to channel their anger.

One café in the Old Town is named after Abd Subah, a Lions’ Den member who was killed by the Israelis. On its sign is the warning: “May God curse anyone who betrays us.” A video posted on social media recently shows the terrified, exhausted confession of a 23-year-old fighter called Zuhair al-Ghaleeth. Exhaling deeply, he states that Israeli agents used a video of him having sex with another man as blackmail, forcing him to gather intelligence on the Lions’ Den leaders. Soon after his confession, Ghaleeth was gunned down on the street in Nablus and died in hospital.

Ghaleeth was not given a martyr’s funeral. Saleh Sabra was. In May the 22-year-old fi ghter was shot dead by Israeli forces during a raid in Nablus as people prepared to mark the 75th anniversary of the Nakba(“catastrophe”): what Arabs call the displacement of 700,000 Palestinians during the establishment of the state of Israel in 1948. In the days before the raid, the Israeli army had bombed the Gaza Strip, killing 33 Palestinians and two Israelis, and leaving hundreds of Palestinians homeless.

Sabra’s older sister, Sajida clutched a basket of rose petals as she waited for his casket to arrive at their family home. Their parents embraced before Sabra’s mother sat down, too weak to stand. Neighbours set out chairs and passed around bottled water. News photographers for local papers climbed onto the roof for an aerial shot. The arrival of the casket was heralded by volleys of gunfire and accompanied by the chants of hundredsof young men:

Oh martyr how lucky you are

I wish my mother was in your shoes!

Rabab al-Azizi’s home in Nablus is full of photographs of her son, Muhammad, a Lions’ Den fighter who was killed during an Israeli raid. Mounted on the wall is an unexploded rocket that the Israelis left at the scene. She took comfort in the solidarity of the community: “I’m proud that my son is an icon for the neighbourhood,” she said. “On Mother’s Day the locals even baked me a cake with Muhammad’s face on it.”

Al-Ajoud stressed that Lions’ Den was far from being some kind of death cult. “We are not fighting for death, we are fi ghting to live,” he told me. Then he added, alluding to the difficulties of life under the Israeli occupation: “Perhaps it is better to die once than to die every day.”

The second time we met was in a café in the Old Town. I was drinking a coffee when I felt a heavy slap on myback. I turned around to see al-Ajoud’s smiling face. He invited me to smoke shisha with him. I asked him why he’d been so secretive before. He told me that the cloak-and-dagger routine had been in order to check if I was being followed.

We ordered two shisha pipes, then a muscular guy in his mid-30s drew up a chair, manspreading between us. Like al-Ajoud, he had an impressive beard. “This is one of the leaders of the Lions’ Den,” al-Ajoud said. “I am not a leader, we all are,” said the man. “Anyone can be. This is to our advantage.”

“Now what is your nickname?” al-Ajoud asked his friend. “Abu Jandal,” replied the man. One of the earliest converts to Islam, Abu Jandal was a companion of the Prophet Muhammad and famous for battling pagans.

The supposed leader of the Lions’ Den spoke with brevity and control, keen for his pronouncements to carry weight. Al-Ajoud hung on to his words, listening silently. “We may not be the generation of liberation,” said Abu Jandal. “But we are the generation of sacrifice. For the next generation, the kids today. To be remembered.”

How Albania Became a Target for Cyberattacks

A massive hack led to the expulsion of Iranian diplomats—but Tehran may have had help from Moscow.

Foreign Policy Magazine

TIRANA, Albania—When the street housing the Russian Embassy in the Albanian capital, Tirana, was renamed “Free Ukraine,” the Russians decided to move. They methodically dismantled the cameras outside the building, removing communications antennas, and lowered the flag.

The Iranians, however, did not have the luxury of time. After the Islamic Republic was held responsible for cyberattacks on the Albanian government, in a televised address on Sept. 7, 2021, Prime Minister Edi Rama gave Tehran’s diplomats just 24 hours to leave the country.

As night fell, witnesses saw staff burning documents in a metal barrel on the Iranian Embassy grounds as part of a swift, crude, and desperate evacuation before armed Albanian Police special operations forces entered with dogs normally used to find explosives.

It was unprecedented severing of diplomatic ties over alleged cyberattacks, even if Iran had a clear motivation. Investigators believe that Albania was targeted in retaliation for its sheltering of thousands of Mujahedin-e-Khalq (MEK), a once violent cult-like Iranian opposition group residing in a fortified camp in Manëz, Albania, after being evacuated from Iraq in 2016.

The still-intact surveillance equipment left near the Iranian Embassy’s gate are a monument to the fact that hostile eyes are still on Albania, and that Albania, a NATO member, remains under attack by malign foreign actors seeking to damage one of the most vulnerable members of the military alliance.

—-

“It is still a dirty cyberwar going on,” Rama told Foreign Policy in his office in Tirana in January, its walls covered with the artist prime minister’s futuristic doodles. “It is the nature of the cyberwar to have all the time to have this kind of back and forth,” he said over the chirps of the exotic birds he keeps outside his door.

Albania is suffering in the face of continuing cyberattacks, digitally devastating the country’s critical computerized public and private infrastructure. Hackers gained continuous access to Albanian government servers in 2021, according to the U.S. Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI), harvesting data, before using ransomware and launching a destructive “wiper” attack destroying public data using disk wiping malware in July 2022.

They also shut down government websites using messaged ransomware, disrupting public services, which was catastrophic for Albanian public services that had been digitized to circumvent slow and corrupt bureaucratic public processes. As the vast majority of government services had been brought online, all aspects of the lives of Albanian citizens, from births to marriages to deaths, were thrown into disarray.

Hackers, too, gathered, deleted, and circulated classified information including the identities of hundreds of undercover Albanian intelligence officers, published the emails of the director of intelligence, and continue to leak sensitive information through a website and Telegram channels, hampering the government’s ability to govern. The information included more than 17 years’ worth of data tracking everyone who entered and exited the country from the government’s Total Information Management System (TIMS), as well as from private institutions such as bank customer financial records. “It was very, very severe,” Rama said regarding the impact of the attacks.

Iranian state actors have been blamed for the most conspicuous cyber operations carried out last year, with the FBI and the U.S. Cybersecurity and Infrastructure Security Agency, private companies Microsoft and Mandiant, and the U.K. National Cyber Security Centre all naming Iran as the sole perpetrator in their reports.

Rama is fully aware that Albania’s decision to allow the MEK, the Iranian regime’s largest external organized opposition faction, to create a base from which they have been able to establish themselves as a prospective government in exile. The group has carried out political activities, holding annual summits (the July cyberattack took place before a planned MEK conference) and hosting foreign dignitaries, including Mike Pompeo and Mike Pence. Still, Rama defends the move.

“They were massacred by raids of Iranian secret service [in Iraq] and then our American friends asked us if we could open our door,” the prime minister said. “We honored our tradition of sheltering people. It is a long tradition in Albania. It is what made Albania the only country in Europe to have more Jews after the Second World War than before,” he said, with the enduring charm that led him to win three democratic elections, despite numerous scandals.

Aggression is a signature of Iranian cyber operations, according to cyber experts. The Chinese are interested in espionage, the Russians, influence, and Iranian aggression. And the attacks on Albanian internet infrastructure are perhaps the most aggressive on a state in peacetime in history.

“With the exception of the attacks on the Ukrainian government, post-invasion, which obviously are happening in the context of shitloads of bombs getting dropped on Ukraine…this one is notable because it is an attack directly on a government,” said Benjamin Read of Mandiant, which was brought in to investigate the attacks. “So that is really the distinguishing feature here a full-frontal attack on a government that you are not at war with,” he said.

For some, the size, scope, and sophistication and aggressive nature of the Albanian attacks, plus the ransomware operations from cybercriminal groups operating from Russian territory, mean that Iran was not acting alone. “I think It is a collaboration between Russian and Iran,” said Gentian Progni, a digital entrepreneur and self-described “whistleblower” based in Tirana, “because the range of the attacks were too big.”

Progni, who learned how to code as a child while housebound during a family blood feud that he cannot elaborate on for fear of reigniting it, points out that the leaked information from the hacks was disseminated from a Russian website, homelandjustice.ru, which Russian authorities have yet to take down, and through Telegram channels also used to spread pro-Russian propaganda.

He also notes that during the same time period Albania was attacked, other attacks were carried out throughout southeastern Europe against Montenegro, Bulgaria, Kosovo, and North Macedonia during the same period by Russian-speaking groups.

The most recent high-profile attacks were carried out against Air Albania, the country’s national airline carrier, by the LockBit group, a notorious cybercriminal gang operating from Russian territory, with Russian-speaking members. It does not attack entities or states within the Russian-dominated Commonwealth of Independent States, according to Tim Mitchell, an expert on LockBit at SecureWorks, a U.S. cybersecurity company.

Last November, A 33-year-old Russian and Canadian national was charged with participating in the LockBit global ransomware campaign and is awaiting extradition to the United States. LockBit also made headlines last month for an attack on Royal Mail, Britain’s primary postal and parcel firm, forcing it to shut down all international mail and parcel deliveries.

North Macedonia’s attack was linked to the BlackByte group, which avoids attacking Russia-based entities. Progni shared with Foreign Policy a screenshot showing numerous Russian IP addresses used for the Kosovo attacks. “So basically, Russia and Iran attacked Albania,” he said.

“Listen, I know that it is very politically correct to blame Russia for everything nowadays, but I think they have enough blame on them,” Rama said. “In this case, no there is no Russian participation, because the [FBI] investigation did not show any.”

Yet both Rama and the FBI have come under fire in Albania following a recent scandal in which the Albanian government is accused of bribing a former FBI official to push for FBI investigations into areas that damaged the Albanian opposition.

“Domestic law enforcement agencies in Albania…have viewed the FBI in this case as institutionally weak, politically exploitable, and even suspected of involvement in corrupt affairs and influence, trafficking for the benefit of powerful individuals in third countries,” said Zef Preci, director of the Center for Economic Research, a nongovernmental organization in Albania.

The FBI declined to comment for this article.

Even if the number of attackers involved in targeting Albania remains unclear, the Russian and Iranian partnership is undeniably close in the battlespace of Ukraine, where Tehran has fast become Moscow’s major military backer in the war, most notably with its supply of lethal kamikaze drones that have devastated Ukrainian infrastructure. In a December briefing, White House National Security Council coordinator John Kirby said, “Russia is offering Iran an unprecedented level of military and technical support that is transforming their relationship into a full-fledged defense partnership.”

The digital attacks in Albania may also signify a greater partnership in the cybersphere. “Here in Ukraine, on the frontline, we are under almost daily attack from the Russians using Iranian Shahid drones. It is just one example of burgeoning cooperation between Tehran and Moscow,” journalist David Patrikarakos, the author of Nuclear Iran, told Foreign Policy from Bakhmut. “We can expect information spaces to become increasingly polluted as the two cooperate more in the digital sphere.”

Five months before the hackers gained access to Albanian systems, Iran and Russia publicly declared that they had formally signed a cybersecurity deal in January 2021. “Although Iran and Russia are known to have cooperated on cyber activities even before 2021, this agreement signals a deeper level of cooperation between the two countries at all administrative levels in the areas of cybersecurity, technological transfer, and joint training,” according to Miad Nakhavali, an Iran researcher and analyst at the Belgrade Centre for Security Policy.

While Russia may not have provided the tools used by Iran to attack Albania, it certainly could have provided the training. And the modus operandi of the attacks has a Russian flavor. “With regards to the use of wipers [the erasing of data] it does bear similarities to what the Russians did in Ukraine,” said Omree Wechsler a senior researcher at the Yuval Ne’eman Workshop for Science, Security, and Technology at Tel Aviv University.

“There is an ongoing partnership between Russia and Iran in cyberspace, which is mostly based on a shared anti-U.S. sentiment and mainly revolves around shared cyber intelligence, training, capacity building and technology transfers. Not much else is known about what tools, techniques or intelligence were shared,” Wechsler said.

Targeting Albania makes sense for Moscow and Tehran. After all, Tirana is perhaps the United States’ closest partner in the Western Balkans since reestablishing relations after 45 years of Communist isolation, which saw Albania as the “North Korea of Europe,” according to Rama.

Albania has not only hosted the Iranian dissidents of the MEK, but also hundreds of U.S.-affiliated political refugees from Afghanistan following the chaotic collapse of the U.S.-supported government there. It was also confirmed last year that Washington would be setting up a special operations forces base in the country.

Cyberoperations against the U.S. government and its allies reveal a strategic partnership of sanctioned states and their proxies working together to damage Western interests globally. Last May, Iranian-backed militias in Iraq claimed responsibility for denial of service (DDoS) attacks that took down Ukrainian government websites on two occasions. One was said to be a revenge for the killing of Daria Dugina in Russia. The second was more was directed against the website of the Ukrainian Ministry of Infrastructure and took place in October.

The exact nature of Russia and Iran’s cyber partnership is unknown. “The Russians are better than the Iranians,” said a cybersecurity expert and independent researcher who goes by the name Grugq. The Iranian Ministry of Intelligence and Security(MOIS) “would very much be the junior partner that would benefit a lot from Russia working with them and not the other way round.”

It is a view echoed by Hamed Mohammadi, an Iranian dissident journalist at Kayhan London whole formerly served in the Iranian Army. “The mullahs listen to Russia’s orders. Of course, they pretend to be independent, but Russia’s influence in the decision-making structure of the Iranian regime is very high, especially in relation to security and military issues.”

Yet, as the Albania attacks show, Iran should not be underestimated, according to Wechsler of Tel Aviv University. “They are not that sophisticated, but they are playing in the court of the big actors,” he said.

Tehran also had a highly suspect diplomatic corps in Tirana. Considering how few economic, cultural, and political ties there are between the two countries, other diplomats in Tirana, as well as the Albanian authorities, often asked what exactly they were doing there. They were not seen at other diplomatic functions, according to one Western diplomat who spoke on the condition of anonymity, and service staff at cafes and restaurants near the Embassy said the Iranians would not even drink coffee outside.

In 2018, Albania expelled the two most senior Iranian diplomats in Tirana, citing national security concerns. Ambassador Gholamhossein Mohammadnia and diplomat Mostafa Roudak , believed to be the MOIS station chief, were declared persona non grata. Albanian authorities also detained, interrogated and deported other Iranians for espionage and, last year, sentenced Iranian citizen Bijan Pooladrag on charges related to terrorism.

Russian nationals, too, have found themselves accused of espionage. Twice in the past two years, alleged Russian agents were arrested near military bases, one of which is being transformed into a new NATO airbase. They are being held in Albanian custody.

——

“We are weaker,” said Fatos Klosi, former head of Albania’s secret service, or SHISH. “It is much easier to attack us and they did it. It is easy to do it. And they did it.” Albania’s vulnerability came from a fast push to digitize government services. “Now we have 95 percent of public services online,” Rama said. “This was our strength in terms of modernization, but it also became our vulnerability because we were exposed.”

Albania’s exposure is ongoing and has been catastrophic for its internal functioning and external information sharing with partner nations. A diplomatic source, speaking on the condition of anonymity, said that “partner countries’ operational collaboration with the government of Albania has been directly impacted by the cyberattacks,” presumably because allies worry its communications are not secure.

Espionage has changed since Klosi’s time as head of the secret service. When he started, Albania was just getting online and most interactions were done in person “It was a gentleman’s sport for a long time, since the ’90s, since the fall of the Berlin Wall,” he said. “We would say to the adversary, to the counterpart, we have an idea that this guy is yours, and if it was true, usually the other service would remove the guy.”

Asked whether we will ever know with 100 percent certainty who exactly is attacking Albania, the former spy chief said no. “Everything is hypothetical in this field. There is no guarantee to say who did it. Who did not do it. We are in uncertain waters,” Klosi said. “I know that the truth is one thing and what appears on the surface is another. What comes to the surface of the water is either propaganda or interests.”

 

Ukraine’s tiny neighbor worries it could be next on Putin’s list

NBC NEWS

The banks of the Dniester River are home to boar, pheasant, and the Operational Group of Russian Forces in Transnistria or OGRF. NBC News passed through a checkpoint manned by these Russian troops in early April. One blue-eyed soldier threw himself back in his chair seeking shelter from the sun, the flag of the Russian Federation on his uniform’s shoulder. Another stood, black shoelaces loosely tied, with a rifle slung over his shoulder, dug in beside them was an armoured personnel carrier. A third uniformed man watched from the shade. They are part of a significant Russian overseas task force, facing NATO’s southwestern flank under the title of “peacekeepers.” Nominally protecting Transnistria, a breakaway slice of Moldova populated by Russian speakers and armed, supplied and subsidised by the Kremlin.

 

The river not only separates Transnistria from the Republic of Moldova, but, also, two competing ideological visions for the region’s future: one under the central command and control of an authoritarian Russian Federation, the other, in the European camp of fragile but progressive Western liberal democracies. 

 

The divide between the two has been frozen since 1992, when a bloody civil war followed the collapse of the Soviet Union and the establishment of the Republic of Moldova as an independent state. Following Russia’s invasion of neighbouring Ukraine, however, the spectre of armed conflict has returned. Transnistria’s Moscow-controlled government claims to have seceded and has appealed for Russia to annex it. If that happens, Moldova itself could be next.

 

“People here were very anxious because they thought that Odessa would fall rapidly. And the next thing they would take would be Moldova and it doesn’t take too much military effort to take it,” says Anatolie Golea, a Moldovan political journalist and founder of the INFOTAG News Agency.

 

“There are comrades here just waiting to be empowered,” Golea says.

 

Moldova is Europe’s poorest country. Tiny, corrupt and vulnerable, Moldova receives 100 per cent of its gas and electricity from Russia. Elite Russian troops occupy its territory. And disinformation and viral messages have been bombarding Moldavians since the invasion began.

 

It is neither a member of NATO or the European Union and risks being dragged into Vladimir Putin’s brutish conflict with Ukraine. Moldova invoked the ire of the Kremlin after a pro-European party founded by Maia Sandu, Moldova’s first female leader, triumphed in dramatic parliamentary elections last year on an anti-corruption platform. Prior to that, Moldova’s political elite had been tied to the Kremlin’s orbit since gaining independence more than 30 years ago.

 

Despite boldly vowing to tackle corruption, clean house and foster European integration, Ms Sandu finds herself, and her country, in grave danger to hostile Russian action. As a result, she has not joined European neighbours in sanctioning Russia or actively condemning its actions.

 

“They think neutrality is best way to keep peace in our country,,” says Natalia Albu, Director for Moldova’s Centre for Strategic Research of Legal, Political and Sociological Research Institute. There is a Moldovan proverb going back to the Ottoman occupation, says Albu, “The head which is down is not being cut by the sword.”

 

Still, however, Albu worries that conflict may be unavoidable and that Moscow may orchestrate a “false flag” operation to justify military intervention in Moldova.

 

Transnistria is home to the Cobasna ammunition depot, one of Europe’s largest, which her research indicates holds more than 20,000 tons of arms, ammunition and other military equipment.

 

“The main vulnerability is that they could use this ammunition depot as a pre-condition to start war.”

 

According to Albu’s research, supported by The NATO Science for Peace and Security Programme, such an attack could correspond to the explosion of a nuclear bomb.

 

One scenario she considered was the possibility that separatist paramilitary forces could organise an attack on the warehouse giving Russian forces cause to intervene. Such scenarios are not fantasies. Last year, the Czech Republic blamed a series of mysterious explosions at Czech ammunition depots, in 2014, on an elite unit inside Russia’s military intelligence service or G.R.U., known as Unit 29155. This same group is believed to be behind the poisoning of Russian defector Sergei Skripal in Britain in 2018.

 

Modern warfare has changed. Leaving tiny Moldova to face not only a Russian conventional warfare threat, economic threat and subversive saboteur threat, but, also, an information and influence threat, as part of what has been coined “hybrid warfare.” Whereby an aggressor uses cyberattacks and other influencing methods, such as disinformation, propaganda and fake news.

 

Liliana Vitu-Esanu was a former BBC Correspondent in Moldova and heads Moldova’s Audio-visual Coordinating Council (BCC), a regulating body which monitors audio-visual communication in Moldova.

 

Since the invasion of Ukraine, three main Russian content networks changed their broadcasts “immediately and dramatically,” she says, “Out of their news programs, the war disappeared. There was no mention of the war….this is a form of manipulation by omission and not informing people….they were informing that there are Ukrainian refugees in Moldova but not saying why there are Ukrainian refugees win Moldova.”

 

Vitu-Esanu has used her position to fine and sanction misleading TV and radio broadcasts, according to the law, but has faced challenges and limitations in her role.

 

Firstly, propaganda is now often transmitted through channels that are impossible to monitor. “Disinformation has gone more underground and the state can’t regulate it,” she says, “disinformation has more platforms to spread and feed people…Telegram…Facebook…websites,”

 

Secondly, Moldova, with such historically close ties to Russia, is divided in terms of public opinion regarding Moscow and the political and culture wars it promulgates. “There are families torn apart. Kids that don’t talk to their parents or to their grandparents,” she says. This has all been made worse by the war.

 

Vitu-Esanu argues that such division is split between the ideological battle lines of stable authoritarianism versus brittle pluralistic democracy.

 

“In Russia there’s one president and one party that controls everything and here you have lots of parties. People may wonder why you need so many? Then you start to take democracy for granted. Then you start to take all those values of democracy, freedom of speech, freedom of assembly, freedom of choice, freedom to run and get elected, freedom to self-determination and self-identity, all of that, there’s a moment you start to take them for granted, you don’t fight for them and you don’t see the point in having them. Or the other way round.”

 

Moldova’s borders are defined by two rivers. The Dniester, separating it from secessionist Transnistria and Ukraine and the Prut separating it from Romania. Eventually the waters flow into the same place: The Black Sea.

It is this large inland sea that determines Russia’s moves in the region, according to Jonathan Eyal of the Royal United Services Institute, a London-based defense think tank. 

“It has always been etched in Russia’s mind that the Black Sea should effectively be a Russian lake,” he said. “Most Russians take it for granted that they should be top dog on the Black Sea.”

For Russia, the Black Sea region has long been of central importance. In the mid-19th century, it fought the Crimean War, a conflict for control of the region. In 2014, after more than two decades of Ukrainian independence, Russia invaded and annexed the Crimean Peninsula. 

Control of the Black Sea — bordered by Russia, Bulgaria, Ukraine, Romania, Georgia and Turkey — would allow Moscow a marine buffer zone and naval access for its fleet to reach bases and interests in the Middle East, as well as open up a new strategic frontier in terms of energy security, strategic clout and trade routes. 

All of the security threats that President Vladimir Putin’s Russia has made in the last 20 years — the invasion of Georgia, the annexation of Crimea, and, now, the invasion of Ukraine — have been in or around the Black Sea region, Eyal said. 

So the area is one of the weakest points for both NATO and the E.U., Eyal said. 

The Black Sea is “home to the least stable and economically developed countries in the region — where most mischief-making can take place,” he added

 

In Northern Kosovo, Tensions Threaten to Boil Over

Foreign Policy Magazine

MITROVICE, NORTHERN KOSOVO

 

A Kalashnikov fires through the dark Mitrovice night. It’s a short staccato burst upward, north of a bridge that separates two embittered communities living in a fragile peace, 22 long years after a brutal civil war.

 

The conflict ended following an unprecedented NATO military air campaign, international sanctions, and the threat of ground invasion. All to stop the genocidal actions of Serbian nationalist leader Slobodan Milosevic’s forces in Kosovo. By October 2000, in the face of growing opposition, Milosevic was removed from power. And a brittle peace and nascent independent Kosovan state took root in the Western Balkans.

 

Underlying issues, however, remain unresolved. Particularly in northern Kosovo’s city of Mitrovice, where a proud Serbian minority, surrounded by ethnic Kosovar Albanians, continue to maintain close ties to Belgrade and Moscow, occasionally participating in acts of violent defiance against the ethnic Albanian-led government in Pristina.

 

Mitrovice is a city divided. Separated by the Ibar river. Serbs live north,  Albanians south, and waning Bosniak and other minority communities are stuck in the middle. It is an area rich in natural resources but torn across, ethnic, religious, and political lines that prevent them from being exploited. Its diverse demographics also make it a proxy battle space for great external powers. 

 

Since Russia invaded Ukraine, however, things have gotten worse. Police actions, from Special Operations Units, have increased, as have attacks upon them; some involving hand grenades and automatic weapons. Politicians have used inflammatory rhetoric. And graffiti marks shabby streets with the symbol “Z,” in support of Vladimir Putin’s so-called special military operation in Ukraine.

 

“Both sides are fucking us.” a local ethnic Serb police officer, said, referring to Kosovo and Serbia, who in turn have allegiances to NATO and Moscow; during a visit to Mitrovice by Serbia’s prime minister, Ana Brnabic. Brnabic’s convoy to Kosovo was joined by the Russian Ambassador to Serbia, who was stopped at the border by Kosovo security forces and denied entry. Brnabic’s appearance followed unrest which saw barricades erected and shots fired, following a dispute between Belgrade and Pristina over license plates, freedom of movement, and identification documents. Kosovo's government insists that local Serbs must obtain KosovarIDs and car plates— or they will use force. An obligation that the minority Serb population views as an oppressive assault on who they are.

 

They look like harmless acronyms. Serbian plates bear the initials, “SRB,” from Serbia, Kosovo’s, “RKS.” A small flag sometimes appears in the middle. Yet, the most common sight is white tape masking the letters, like a brown paper bag for a bottle of malt liquor, an unofficial short-cut masking a misdemeanor and avoiding trouble with the authorities.

 

Yet these acronyms carry meaning. Particularly in a place where, not that long ago, mass graves were filled with the bodies of families forced to hold their infants and children in front of them before execution;  an effort to save ammunition. Identity matters. And not only in Kosovo. In Israel and the Palestinian territories, Israelis and Palestinians possess different license plates, which for Palestinians prohibits movement and leads to greater scrutiny at checkpoints. In Iraq, National ID cards state the religion of the bearer which sometimes leads to summary executions, by militiamen, terrorist groups, and vigilantes.

 

“If we lose this [the license plate] then there is no Serbia here anymore,” said Damjan Petrovic a local Serb who had turned out to watch the prime minister’s visit, “We will lose our identity.”

 

One police officer’s house was burned after he changed plates to the Kosovo government’s required ones. “Traitor,” read a comment posted on a local Serbian Facebook group. “He needs to burn along with his children.”

 

As of now, around 12 cars have changed their license plates to those required by the Republic of Kosovo. And their owners have paid the price, with three of them having their properties burned, and some their cars.

 

“We are more determined than ever that order and law extend to every corner of the Republic of Kosovo,” Minister of Interior Xhelal Svecla said in a Facebook post following one of the arson attacks.

 

“The fact that a spat over official documentation…sparked such tensions is a testament to the fragility of the situation,” according to Petrit Selimi, Kosovo’s former foreign minister.

 

"History in Kosovo didn't start in 1999," said Miodrag Milicevic, referring to NATO's intervention and the bombing of Belgrade. A local activist with the NGO Aktiv whose mission is described as “strengthening civil society and facilitating progressive trends,” within the community, and receives funding from various sources including the U.S. and British Embassies, Milicevic is an ethnic Serb is originally from Pristina, “I didn’t come here voluntarily,” he said.

 

The collapse of Yugoslavia, and the savage wars that followed, saw untold thousands killed and millions more displaced. In Kosovo, 8,661 Kosovo Albanian civilians were killed or disappeared, as well as 1,797 Serbs and 447 Roma, Bosniaks, and other non-Albanians, according to The Humanitarian Law Centre, an NGO documenting Human Rights abuse in the Balkans.

 

Civil War led to NATO’s intervention and a 78-day bombing campaign. Striking targets inside Kosovo and Serbia. An act of intervention that leaves bitter memories amongst Serbs, “NATO GO HOME,” reads the graffiti on the sidewalks of Mitrovice. As well as a swastika sandwiched between “US” and “EU.” Hatred of the United States still runs deep. On a visit to Mitrovice not long after the NATO intervention, I recall postcards being sold depicting a Serbian paramilitary soldier raping Mickey Mouse.

 

NATO’s intervention, however, earned the gratitude of ethnic Albanians. Pristina, Kosovo’s capital, even bears streets named after Bill Clinton and Tony Blair—and numerous memorials to NATO forces.

 

External powers from Brussels to Beijing each have their competing interests in Kosovo. “We are a geopolitical chessboard for the E.U., Russia, [and] China," said Igor Markovic, Milivec’s colleague at Aktiv.

 

A local civil activist who wisehes to remain anonymous because they live in a high-risk area said that there have been reports of Chinese manufactured facial recognition cameras being installed in northern Kosovo. Kosovar police have carried out operations taking down surveillance cameras in the past, which, they say, are tied to foreign governments.

 

Serbs in Northern Kosovo have long seen Moscow as a protector. They share faith, ethnic roots, cultural ties, and disdain of U.S.-led hegemony. The Kosovo government has in the past declared staff of the Russian official represtantive office, in Pristina, “persona non grata,” removing their diplomatic immunity from arrest and prosecution. The most recent case occurred in Decemebr 2021, when a Russian United Nations diplomat was expelled for “harmful acitivity,” according to Kosovo’s Foreign Minister. Two other Russian diplomates were kicked out that October.

 

During the same period, Russian-Serbian ties strengthened. And, last month,  Russia's Foreign Minister Sergei Lavrov and his Serbian counterpart Nikola Selakovic signed a document dubbed a "plan on consultations," much to the chagrin of Brussels and The White House. The Serbian Foreign minister described it as a “technical document,” and its details are vague, beyond ‘consultation,’  prompting the U.S. Ambassador to Serbia, Christopher Hill, to say that “the United States would like to hear some clarification of what this agreement or what this protocol really was.”

 

“To be frank, nobody should be signing anything with Russia right now,” Hill said.

 

The Serbia-Russia agreement was "a very clear sign about their intention to strengthen their ties", said Peter Stano, a spokesperson for the EU's executive commission, who noted that the new Russian-Serbian consultation document had been signed just days after Moscow announced a mobilization for the Ukraine war and began to stage sham referendums for the territory it has captured.

 

Yet with Russia at war, rhetoric, actions, and provocations have accelerated in Mitrovice. This summer, when Pristina announced its implementation of the license plate regulations, barricades were erected, as air raid sirens called out young men. Videos circulating on Kosovar media seemingly show Serbian paramilitary groups handing out weapons. In recent months, a new group seemingly representing Serbs in Kosovo, called the Northern Brigade, has made its presence known in Mitrovice.

 

“Don’t worry,” their stencils read, “We are here waiting.”

 

Albanian newspaper, Albania Post, reported that European intelligence officials say that the Northern Brigade number around 300 well-armed paramilitaries, some of them foreign nationals.

 

Moscow has long been accused of having links to Serbian paramilitaries and, when Russia invaded Ukraine, the first rally in support of Russia was held in Belgrade in March.

 

“Crimea is Russia, Kosovo is Serbia,” crowds chanted. The same slogan is emblazoned on the walls of Mitrovice.

 

“Serbia has cultivated for years, even decades, various groups operating in between the paramilitary world and organized crime and even sports hooliganism. "These seem to belong to that spectrum of troublemaker,” Selimi, Kosovo’s former foreign minister, said rereferring to the Northern Brigade.

 

Concern surrounds the Russian-Serbian Humanitarian Center at Nis, Serbia, close to Mitrovice and the Kosovo border. “There are of course allegations that it is being used as a local spy center… my feeling is that by demanding diplomatic status for its staff (so far denied by Serbia) Russia is playing a symbolic game with the West and simultaneously putting pressure on Belgrade,” says Srdjan Cvijic, a Serbian political scientist.

 

Yet, the U.S. and other Western governments have pointed out that the center is a base for Russian espionage. The request by the Russian Federation for diplomatic immunity for its staff, “betrays the real purpose of the center,” former Kosovo Foreign Minster, Selimi, says. Recently, the Kosovar government has reported that operatives form the center have been illegally crossing into northern Kosovo from Nis.  

 

Asked whether foreign agents were acting upon Kosovar soil, Emilija Redžepi, deputy prime minister for minority and human rights, held her breath and waited before answering, “we must be very careful.”

 

NATO has increased troop numbers in Kosovo for what it describes as “training activities to maintain their high level of readiness and contribute to the preservation of a safe and secure environment and freedom of movement for all the people in Kosovo.”

 

The deployment is said to be temporary, however, jobs are being advertised to hire Kosovars on military bases, including cooks, carpenters, and construction workers, which may indicate a longer-term commitment by NATO amid rising tensions. A NATO force would likely be accepted by Serbia, Cvijic, the Serbian political scientist says, because ethnic Serbs view Kosovo police, particularly Special Operations Units, with fear.

 

According to Labinot Hoxha, a former Kosovar dipolomat now in Brussels, "Europe is facing a long hard cold polluted winter," as it struggles to find alternative energy sources and the global economy faces another potential recession. This crisis could spell an opportunity for Kosovo, however, which has coal, albeit not of great quality. The once vast Oblic power complex fueled with coal from mines around Mitrovice supplied electrical power to what is now North Macedonia, Albania, Bulgaria, and Greece.

 

Redžepi has been speaking with several foreign companies about extracting and exporting Kosovo’s energy resources.  

 

Kosovo’s story is not just one of Serbs and Albanians but also Bosniaks, Croats, Gorani, Ashkali, and others. Speaking in a café in Mitrovice, leaders of the local Bosniak community said that they felt trapped between Pristina and Belgrade.

 

“We’re between the fires, and we don’t know who will burn us,” said Nurmina Mulic, a civil activist.

 

 

 

GREECE IS FOR TOURISTS,

Foreign Policy Magazine.

ATHENS- On the southern slopes of the Acropolis, tourists’ footsteps flip-flop across rough rocks in search of the perfect Parthenon selfie. The city’s central cafes are crammed. And, down at the port, officials in pristine white uniforms carefully conduct the cars, people, and bicycles setting sail across the Aegean Sea. It’s summer in Athens and the Greek tourism industry is having a very good year.

 

A smallish country of only 11 million people, Greece is already set to beat the country’s 2019 record of 33.1 million foreign visitors, now welcoming more than 1 million travellers a week, according to Tourism Minister, Vassilis Kikilias. Hotels on popular Greek islands are fully booked through late September—well beyond the traditional season, and celebrity spotting has become a sport. Images of Elon Musk, Demi Moore and 50 Cent are being posted from the bars of Mykonos, the waters of the Ionian Sea, and the yachts of the Cyclades.

 

But ordinary Greeks are not basking in Greece’s successful summer.

Greece is for tourists only,” says Amalia Zavacopoulou a single working mother from Athens, “everything is more expensive from fuel to something as simple as a souvlaki (a Greek staple street food)” and ordinary Greeks, she says, are struggling to keep up with the budgets of their foreign guests. 

 

Her electricity bills have risen nearly 50 percent since before the pandemic. Fuel costs in Greece have risen by more than 35 pecent this year, due to the ongoing conflict in Ukraine, and Russian efforts to starve Europe of energy. Greece relies on Russia for about 40 percent of its natural gas so it has been hit particularly hard.

 

Inflation hit 12 percent this summer, its highest level in 29 years, according to data released by Eurostat, the official statistical authority of the European Union. And, in a nation where the minimum wage is 713 euros per month ($725), more than 43 per cent of the labour force can’t afford to take a holiday, according to a survey by the European Trade Union Institute. Return ferry tickets to an island last year for a family of four, including a car, cost 600 euros ($610). This year it’s over 850 Euros ($862), according to the Ministry of shipping. The cheapest hotel on Mykonos this week, costs at least 200 euros per night.  That’s prohibitive even for most middle-class Greeks. In total, a family holiday to a modest island destination would cost someone earning double minimum wage a full month’s salary. And that’s before accounting for food, drinks and restaurant costs.

 

 

Yet Athenians’ biggest complaint of all is the rise in rent. 

“We in Greece, had the big financial problems of 2010-2016. We recovered. Everything went well, and then came Covid, and then the war,” says Giorigios Stampoulos, an Athens cab driver for over 22 years, “now the tourists came back. We have a lot of tourists…. But the problem is we can’t afford an apartment. Because it’s all AirBnB for tourists and if you find something they want double or triple from last year.”

 

Before the pandemic, a modest two-bedroom apartment in central Athens would rent for roughly 300 euros a month. Now the monthly price is at least 550. Prices in large part have soared as tourists, expats, and Digital Nomads are making the most of the capital’s comparatively low rents and living costs. “If you have a Western European salary, Athens is a good base,” says  27-year-old Ben Biasi, a French tourist strolling through the pedestrian backstreets of Athens’ Plaka neighborhood.

 

“Let’s go to an island, buy a house and work from the house!” he says to his group of friends.

 

Companies like AirBnB and Booking.com have been catering to not only tourists but those seeking longer-term stays. One such company is Blueground which has more than 1,000 fully furnished apartments in Athens, rented out to mostly U.S. citizens for around 1200 euros per month.

 

“Business is a booming! It’s good,” says Demetris Geras, 27, from Blueground, “they come for the sun. It’s the Florida of Europe.”

 

As a Greek-American with family here, however, Geras recognises the hardships that Greeks are facing. “Most of the youth here are living with their parents. They make less than 1,000 euros a month, so they can’t move out.” Although he works in property, Geras sees the problem as a lack of fair employment opportunity and remuneration from employers.

 

“We can point fingers at people in real estate. But it’s almost criminal how much they (Greeks) get paid. They are almost starving…. Wages are not so great due to austerity measures and low Greek minimum wage. Food and rent have gone up. Homeowners have raised their AirBnB prices for foreigners who are coming to Athens. And Greeks are the ones paying the price.”

One of those paying the price is street artist and graphic designer Kostas Sergiou, 36. “I’m struggling,” he says, “in March, I had a health problem, a panic attack….the cause was stress.” Sergiou’s landlady put up his rent and now he’s struggling to find the money to pay bills.

 

Summer holidays are sacred to Greeks and most Athenians tend to flee the city heat for vacation on the coast or mountains. Sergiou is staying put. “I prefer to stay here because I feel less stressed….for us Greeks, it’s cheaper to go on a trip outside Greece than to an island.”

Despite the economic hardships Greeks are still finding ways to have a break. Drive along the coast from Athens to the Ancient temple of Sounio this summer and you will find lines of parked cars dotted around rocky swimming holes. The so-called Athenian Riviera is packed. As city residents seek swims closer to home. Greeks also continue to have a relatively high level of property ownership within their families, and many Greeks are choosing to take breaks at their family home or with friends who own a property. Others are finding cheaper alternatives like “free-camping,” playing a cat and mouse game with authorities, as they erect tents along the coast before being told to move on or saturating areas where it is tolerated, such as the far-flung island of Tilos, which has seen a spike in campers this year.

Others, still, are going abroad to European destinations like Berlin, Sergiou says, as Greece becomes unaffordable.

 

But amid it all, a trace of traditional Greek attitudes remains. “Open your Instagram and you see everyone splashing about….summer is summer,” Sergiou says, “Greek people will go wherever they can and face their problems in September. “ 

 

 

Greece’s Wildfires and the Future of Natural Disasters,

New Lines Magazine

After he received the call, Spyros Diamantis put down his coffee and left the cafe. “Let’s go, kids,” he shouted to his mates sitting outside, seven local lads dressed in T-shirts and the military fatigues they kept after completing national military service. Kamatriades, a village on the Greek island of Evia, is on fire. “They are afraid that it will move downwards,” Spyros said. They clambered onto the back of a battered green pickup truck, and Spyros started the engine. Hurtling down winding roads, through ashen smoke, we drove toward the inferno that has been blazing for a week on the island of Evia, a two-hour drive north of the Greek capital, Athens.

Wildfires are common in Greece. In 2018, high winds drove a fire through Mati, a seaside resort town northeast of Athens, killing 102 people, the highest recorded death toll in a Greek wildfire. I was there, and I remember the promises from authorities that lessons would be learned. Three years later, Greece burns once more. As the country sweats through its worst heatwave in 40 years, the forests that make up nearly a third of the country have become tinderboxes. Thanks to human-caused climate change, fires, like those seen here, will become a familiar sight to many across the globe.

This was not an average day for Spyros, a 26-year-old with a handsome face that could be on television. He normally works in his family’s supermarket in Istiaia, a hardscrabble town in northern Evia. Years of austerity, which has drained public resources and undermined governmental preparedness, combined with climate change has led to the worst wildfires since the 1980s, and everything has changed.

Spyros stopped stacking boxes in the supermarket warehouse and called a friend in town, a local firefighter, offering to help. At the fire station, they gave him a vehicle, hose and water pump. “I was forced to learn how to fight fires,” he told me. “I’m not a firefighter or anything like it. I just felt that my place needed me when the fires started, so I did it,” Spyros explained.

Up ahead, a police car blocked the road, a message blaring out from the loudspeaker on its roof: “MOVE IN THE OTHER DIRECTION. TAKE YOUR CARS. EVACUATE!” Spyros cursed, “Malaka,” and got out of the car to talk to the police officer. “In Greece, the number of police is so much higher than the number of firefighters. This is one of the reasons that in north Evia we are on fire for one week,” Takis Farados, Spyros’ friend and fellow volunteer firefighter, explained from the backseat. After some arguing with the police, Spyros was back behind the wheel and we were let through, bouncing down a dirt track toward the flames that were creeping closer to the tree line.

“If the fire is coming this way, we must go and get ahead of it,” Spyros said.
“Slowly, Spyros,” Takis tells him
“Is there a way to come back?” Spyros asked
“The same way we are going in, man.”
“Yeah, right, as if. If this all flares up, like we will have the time.”

The volunteers alongside Spyros are all friends. When Spyros began volunteering, it did not take long for the others to follow him. He had always been the leader of his tightknit crew, or pareia, in Greek. “Spyros doesn’t think a lot before he does something,” Thodoris Koubis, a childhood friend of his, told me. “He is philotimo,” he said, using a Greek word that is without definition and cannot be directly translated into English. The word comes from the Greek root “philo,” meaning friend, and “timi,” meaning honor. It encompasses pride in oneself, family, friends and a love of honor.

We stopped at a clearing before a burning forest of crackling trees and exploding pine cones. “Jump out, you lazy dogs,” Spyros shouted. The young men descended from the pickup and began to unravel the hose from the water pump, shouting commands at one another on how best to ready the hose to fight the flames.

Other vehicles joined the makeshift fire brigade and local residents began marching toward the flames armed with cut off tree branches, while Spyros’ crew carried the water hose. “Let’s get ahead of the fire so it doesn’t come this way, stop it moving towards the village,” one said. As we stepped toward the fire, our world turned hot, claustrophobic and suffocating. Flames climbed trees the size of buildings in a matter of minutes. A strong gust of summer wind could mean the end. Ash dropped from the sky like summer snow. Spyros sprayed the base of the creeping bright orange flames with the water hose as the others frantically beat the fire with their tree branches.

Overhead, helicopter rotor blades whirred violently as an orange Sikorsky S-64 Skycrane disappeared into the thick smoke. It dropped its load: 2,600 gallons of seawater from its belly. So much water that, eventually, in fact, it passed the fire and started to drench us. I dropped to my knees and fell on the camera in my hands to protect it from the water. I borrowed it from a friend. If the fire doesn’t kill me, I was thinking, he certainly will if he finds out I destroyed it.

Forty-five minutes later, and they have done it. Spyros and his volunteer firefighter crew put out the fire and saved the village. “Only the people will save the people, my friend,” Spyros told me. “That’s the only way, on our own. “We return to Istiaia to Spyros’ local cafe, cold beers, on the house. “The guys are unbelievable, if they weren’t here to help, there would be nothing, everything would be burned. These guys. Our youth,” said Aggeliki Tsoutsika, the matriarch of the cafe.

A toast. “Mitsotakis, gamiesi!” (“Mitsotakis, go fuck yourself.”) It’s an insult hurled at Greece’s prime minister, Kyriakos Mitsotakis and a catchphrase that has become popular during the fires after a video in which a local Evia resident said it live on Greek TV went viral.

Holocaust is an Ancient Greek word meaning completely consumed by fire. And that’s what Evia was last month, completely consumed by fire. Fires around the northern parts of Evia, Greece’s second-largest island, have destroyed more than 150,000 acres of pine forest, razed homes, destroyed livelihoods and displaced hundreds of people. “This is unprecedented for us,” says Spyros, “at least for young people. Some older people might have seen it before.” It is something, scientists predict, Spyros will see again.

“Climate change is not the problem of the future; it’s here and now and affecting every region in the world,” said Friederike Otto from Oxford University, one of the many authors of the United Nations Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) report published earlier this month. According to the report, if we fail to quickly mobilize a global response, the world faces climate catastrophe. Catastrophe may be a Greek word, but climate catastrophe is not solely a Greek phenomenon. This year, fires have burned in North America, Algeria, Turkey, Sweden, Finland and Italy. Germany suffered its worst floods in a thousand years; Belgium, Switzerland, the Netherlands, Britain and China saw floods too. The entire global ecosystem has changed. According to the IPCC report, southern Europe is more arid, northern Europe wetter. Floods and fires are the new normal. Many may feel that climate change catastrophe is beyond our ability to control, that it’s up to governments to resolve. But is there something that we as individuals can do to confront disaster?

That is a question that academic Daniel Aldrich has dedicated his life to. In 2005, Aldrich moved to Lakeview, New Orleans, with his family to begin an academic post teaching Japanese domestic policy at Tulane University, his first job out of graduate school. After buying new furniture and a car and enrolling his two young children in school, Aldrich went to bed early on an August Sunday, ready to start his new job the following day. “That day never happened,” Aldrich told me, “because we had to evacuate Sunday morning around 3 a.m. with what felt like a million other New Orleans residents, as Hurricane Katrina came in.”

Driving toward Houston with nothing but the clothes on his back and a bag of toys for the kids, Aldrich had found himself in the center of what the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) would call the single most catastrophic natural disaster in U.S. history. He was homeless, in shock and didn’t know what to do. “We thought that the government would somehow step in with a check like one of those Publishers Clearing House kind of moments,” Aldrich said. In the end, it was not the state, the market or institutions that came to his aid, but ordinary people, some of whom he had never met before. Schoolchildren in Detroit put on a fundraiser for his family, selling baked goods in the street. A lady in Georgia sold her lottery ticket and gave him the proceeds. Friends offered up their homes. “What really helped us, was not the government or whatever the private insurance that we had, or something like that. It’s really about the network. So, the people that we were connected to,” Aldrich said.

Since then, Aldrich has been fascinated with how survivors of major crises overcome disasters. He applied for grants and began researching disaster response efforts in India, Japan, Israel and Mexico. Aldrich is now a professor at Northeastern University and heads its security and resilience studies program. His ideas have had an effect on those engaged in disaster response worldwide, including Emma Le Mesurier, formerly chief impact officer of Mayday Rescue, the organization responsible for supporting Syria’s White Helmets (a humanitarian relief organization).

“We are all going to be victims of climate change, to a greater or lesser extent. But what is interesting is the possibility to transform ourselves from being the victims of climate change into being participants in solving the problem,” said La Mesurier, based on her experience in Syria.

What matters in times of crises, according to Aldrich and Le Mesurier, is who we know. Social capital is crucial to survive and thrive in the face of adversity.

Spyros and his friends are not alone in their efforts to help the community in the face of disaster. Evia has become a bustling hub of grassroots volunteer action, which strengthens social connections. Dipping a ladle into an industrial sized cauldron of orzo, a traditional Greek pasta dish, Kostas Polychronopoulos, founder of the charity “The Other Human,” has worked tirelessly to feed the hungry survivors of Evia’s fires. “Don’t put stuff in like that, put the oil in first, it will open,” Polychronopoulos shouted at Kostas Mizamitzis, a professional chef from Athens who, alongside Polychronopoulos, has established a “social kitchen” in Evia’s seaside town of Pefki. “Just trust me, trust me, it won’t burn,” Mizamitzis replied casually.

For his work feeding refugees on the island of Lesbos in 2015, Polychronopoulos was awarded the “European Citizen’s Prize.” He refused to accept it, however, in protest over the European Union’s treatment of refugees.

Polychronopoulos believes that the relationship between the state and the individual is different in Greece than in other countries and allows for more community action. “From the beginnings of the Greek state, the state did not help; nothing has changed,” Polychronopoulos said. Other grassroots volunteer efforts in Evia include rescuing animals lost among the wildfires, converting a gym in Istiaia into a makeshift shelter for those displaced by fire, and teachers, agricultural workers, doctors, dentists and shopkeepers working for free. “Solidarity is our only weapon,” Polychronopoulos said.

However, solidarity alone will not save people from natural disasters. “The people of Greece, after 11 years during which the troika has effectively denied them access to proper state protection, showed they have learned to help one another. Solidarity will, undoubtedly, be a major source of comfort for people who suffer the effects of climate change. However, this should offer no excuses to governments and international organizations, which continue fueling climate change and, at once, wrecking the civil protection services that are so desperately needed,” Yanis Varoufakis, a Greek economist and former finance minister, told me by phone.

Wildfires and extreme weather may have finally put climate change high on the global agenda, but it’s not something Spyros has given much consideration. “I don’t think climate change was at work here,” he said with such an uncharacteristic lack of confidence that I suspect that he does not fully understand the concept. Anyway, he’s got bigger questions on his mind now that he is Istiaia’s local hero. Has he had any luck with the ladies since he started fighting fires? “I haven’t gotten laid since I started volunteering, but my ex-girlfriend keeps calling me,” he said, shrugging. There are some flames, it seems, that Spyros can’t put out.

Remembering Iraqi special forces soldier 'Spongebob' BBC

Ahmed "Talqa" was killed on Friday.

He hated that name. Talqa means "bullet" in Arabic and Ahmed preferred "SpongeBob" - the nickname given to him by his son because of his goofy, gap-toothed smile.

Ahmed's name cannot be printed in full because he is - sorry, was - a member of Iraq's elite Counter-Terrorism Service (CTS), more commonly known as the Golden Division, and it may endanger the rest of his family to do so.

That in itself is a telling fact about the state of Iraq more than 13 years after the US-led invasion.

Ahmed was involved in all of the wars of his generation and he was one of the bravest, kindest, funniest men I have known.

Ahmed's nom de guerre, Talqa, came from the slugs pulled out of him nearly a decade ago.

A Shia Muslim from Baghdad, Ahmed had been driving home one night when he was pulled over at a police checkpoint.

The federal police force had been so infiltrated by Shia militias at the time that it effectively was one - some say it still is.

The policemen at that checkpoint pulled Ahmed out of his car after checking his ID. Other men were waiting for him.

At the time, Shia militias had been targeting Iraqi special forces personnel in retaliation for carrying out raids against them throughout the capital and somehow they had got hold of Ahmed's name.

He was bundled into the boot of a car and driven to an abandoned warehouse where he was tortured. His ordeal began with both of his hands being nailed to a wooden board.

"I kept telling them that I didn't work with the Americans," Ahmed told me.

But they did not stop, pulling out each of his fingernails with a set of pliers and resuscitating him each time he passed out from the pain.

They then put a circular saw to his forehead. "They were trying to cut my face off - what's wrong with these people?"

Ahmed never confessed to being in the special forces.

A hood was placed over his head and he was shot five times. One bullet grazed his skull, causing blood to seep through the hood. The militiamen were convinced that he was dead.

They dumped his body on a rubbish dump in a Sunni Muslim area - a common practice during the sectarian war that peaked from 2006 to 2007 - as they sought to lay blame at the door of another community for murder and make it less likely the victim would get a decent burial.

Counter to the narrative of hatred, however, an elderly Sunni man carried Ahmed's body to the hospital.

Ahmed recovered. He tried to find and thank this kind stranger but he could not be found.

Hospital staff told him that after bringing in Ahmed the man had been grabbed by another set of Iraqi policemen, who blamed him for Ahmed's wounds.

There was no record of the man's arrest and he joins the untold thousands of Iraqis who have disappeared in the country's cycles of violence and revenge.

Ahmed, the great survivor, was killed in Mosul when an IS militant blew up a car bomb beside the Humvee in which he was manning the gun turret.

Ahmed was an outstanding gunner. Earlier this year, he had saved my life when a suspected car bomb came screeching towards us in the badlands of Iraq's western province of Anbar.

Mosul is not Anbar. It is a massive city with narrow streets and a population of more than a million, with IS fighters and car bombs lying in wait.

In a matter of seconds, a car bomb can appear and devastate Iraqi forces.

It's the jihadists' version of an air strike and the main reason why Iraqi special forces casualties are mounting. Nothing was left of Ahmed's to bury - no body, no clothes.

Ahmed was one of the many CTS personnel to have been at the centre of Iraq's wars since 2003.

Originally set up by the US military as the Iraqi Counter-Terrorism Force (ICTF), recruits were expected to meet similar standards expected of US special forces personnel.

After 10 days of basic training in Baghdad, candidates were sent to Jordan to undertake a three-month selection process.

Out of an initial pool of some 1,200 men, only 80 made it through.

Throughout selection, candidates were not allowed to call each other by their names, using only assigned numbers.

In a country that would eventually be torn apart by sectarian tensions, the system had the unexpected advantage of creating an esprit de corps among Shia Arab, Sunni Arab and Kurdish recruits.

The intensive training and meritocratic command structure - a novelty - helped create perhaps the only success story of the US military's efforts to rebuild the Iraqi security forces.

As the Americans left in 2011, standards slipped and selection changed.

But the CTS remained the most professional and least sectarian fighting force in the country.

And when the Iraqi army collapsed after marauding Sunni supremacists tore through the country in 2014, they were the last soldiers standing - folk heroes to the point that even Shia militiamen began donning ICTF patches.

In nearly every battle against IS, Iraq's special forces have been the tip of the spear.

Ahmed was there in Ramadi, in Hit, in Falluja and, finally, in Mosul - just as he was there in earlier battles against al-Qaeda in Iraq and the Shia militias.

Despite his war record, Ahmed was not, as one colleague likes to say, your typical "double-hard war bastard".

He was perhaps the silliest war hero you will ever get to meet, cracking corny jokes with that same "SpongeBob" smile, no matter how miserable the situation was.

"What's there to eat?" Ahmed would always ask me before licking his lips, grabbing my gut and shouting: "Ayman! Ayman is delicious."

Just on Thursday, I needed a cigarette lighter and went to Ahmed.

He pulled out a stack of 10 held together by a rubber band. "Now I don't have so many, so the price is high," he said. "I'll give you the blue one for 1,000 dollars."

"Sure, Ahmed," I told him. "I'll bring the money tomorrow."

"For tomorrow, the price is 2,000 dollars," he responded. I agreed.

It's a debt I'll never get to pay.

A Child Has Been Killed. NEWSWEEK MAGAZINE

The doctor covers his ears, my hands begin to shake, and we drop toward the floor. Interview interrupted. Shells are falling directly on the town of Khan Assobl, and war roars through the once tidy calm of a rural home.

Khan Assobl is one place among many. A rough-hewn northern Syrian town in a rustic province called Idlib. As Syria moved beyond revolution to stagnated civil war, this old landscape of flinty crests and gnarled trees was put toward new use, excavated by both civilians and rebel soldiers for underground protection from aerial bombardment and shelling from the nearby Syrian Army outposts. If there was a time when war might have passed through Khan Assobl, the territory claimed by one side or another, that is over. Now the war never leaves. Rebels lob artillery into government positions, and the regime strikes at everything it can—mostly civilian areas like Khan Assobl.

Dr. Safah begins to stand; the initial shell shock fades, and duty kicks in. Someone could be hurt out there. Mahmood, the ambulance driver, is already out the door. Steady shellfire goes on as he rushes toward his vehicle, through ashen smoke, blasted earth, and the smell of freshly shattered stone. The engine sputters to a start on shabbily refined petrol. Lights flash, sirens howl, and the sayyarat issaaf—"car of the emergency"—shifts into motion, its rear sliding door still open.

"When we go on a mission, we expect to die," says Mahmood. "It is a good death. Yes, a good death, because I face death to help people."

Dr. Safah and I follow Mahmood's ambulance, driving toward the place where we think the shells have struck. We swerve past potholes on country roads altered by war's presence. The past is here. Signs point toward the Ebla ruins, the Idleb Hotel, camping sites. They are echoes of a life before the war. The present is here too. Bullet holes fill road signs, their jagged edges rusted with the passing of time. In quieter hours, country boys running errands on horses touch their heads when you pass, and old men herding sheep raise their staffs and greet you with the old Ottoman word "Effendi."

We reach flat, parched grass on the road's edge, and I look to Dr. Safah. He is a big, bull-like man, whose broad shoulders, heavy hands, and long Sunni beard are offset by kind eyes that fill with tears each time a child is killed.

A child has been killed. When we reach a Chinese-made pickup truck near where the shells landed, we see him. His name was Hussein Safah. He was 6 years old.

We find Hussein on the back of the pickup, placed by neighbors to take him to the cemetery field. His skull is broken and hollow. His body has been split in half. A knot of men in baseball caps look sullenly on, their hands on their hips, their heads held low. Just minutes earlier, the boy had been playing in his garden nearby. Now there is blood on the wall, a single shoe, and the smell of explosives.

Wrapped in a cheap rug, Hussein is being lowered into one of a dozen open graves that the people of Khan Assobl keep ready for their family, neighbors, and friends. He is buried quickly so that his mother doesn't have to see him this way. There is another reason there will be no funeral: the regime bombs funerals—they kill more people that way.

Government-ordered indiscriminate shelling. It means that day after day, civilians have become unwitting players in a conflict that was not theirs, victims of a kind of collective punishment by a regime targeting its own citizens. I've seen war before, but I don't understand this strategy. Citadels of government force lie surrounded by valleys of a rebel population, both martial and innocent. Rebels fire crude artillery toward encircled regime military bases. When the regime fires back, it is erratic, aimed at nothing but people, whoever they may be.

Amid talk of chemical weapons, red lines, and jihadis, what is forgotten is the fact that the largest numbers of Syrians being killed are people outside combat, in their gardens, in small towns like this one. We are now in the third year of bloodshed. There have been 93,000 killed, according to the United Nations; as many as 120,000, according to the Syrian Observatory for Human Rights. The truth is, we don't know how many, because there are so many, most of them civilians.

"Syrians have just become numbers," Dr. Safah says.

But the numbers have names. Hussein is one. Killed by a single shell, one of 40, another number, dropped on this rural place one afternoon, a quantity utterly insignificant in the wreckage. How many more numbers will there be? Syrians already know the answer. "Mu muhem," says Mahmood. It does not matter. "We are alone."

IT WAS my third trip to Syria since the war began, and it started with a hard crossing. Days earlier, twin car bombs had devastated the Turkish border town of Reyhanli, killing at least 50, blurring the boundaries of Syria's expanding war, and temporarily shutting down border posts. The only way to enter Syria's vast northwestern province of Idlib was illegally, through a local smuggler. Abu Abdu was his name, and he grabbed the straps of my heavy bag when the Turkish Jandarma border guard chased us through a muddy field with his rifle drawn. In the forbidden military zone on the Turkish side of the border, we leaped over a mound of earth, our fall broken by swampy water, before we clambered up toward the wire. Barbed knots ripped my jeans and Abu Abdu's hands as he held apart a hole for us to crawl through.

"Burada tamam abi," Abu Abdu called to the Turkish border guard, 20 steps away, once we reached the other side. "We're fine here, brother." Syria. Your jurisdiction has just ended. The Turk raised his gun and kept us in his sights as we walked away. I hoped that boredom, malice, and the failure of his sweaty run wouldn't lead him to move his finger.

I meet Mahmood, the ambulance driver, in a breeze-block bungalow. He is 28 years old, with striking green eyes, curly hair, and a handsome face that could be on television. He's layering the walls with concrete as part of a three-man crew; a radio hangs perpetually by his side, waiting for a call. It is the lifeline between the injured and the local man they depend on, their courier, their neighbor, and their friend. His ambulance, parked yards away, is under the cover of a blue tarpaulin to obscure it from regime aircraft, which deliberately target ambulances, doctors, and hospitals—when they bother to target anything at all. Behind us, the minaret from Khan Assobl's mosque stands perilously erect, chewed apart by tank fire—a broken monument to a once peaceful place now under siege.

Khan Assobl is known for its quality stone—arsali and abdini—and like most men in town, Mahmood works in construction, his skills more recently employed to dig makeshift shelters and reinforce homes. His duty as the ambulance driver for 10 villages in the area is unpaid, as are the duties of the other volunteers of the medical coordination committee—a physiotherapist, two pharmacists, a nurse, and the local imam, who learned basic medicine during a 23-year prison sentence for anti-government activities in the Muslim Brotherhood. They are simple men, religious, set apart from their rural neighbors by some education and a belief in the duty to help those around them. When the revolution started, Mahmood joined demonstrations and then the Free Syrian Army, until he found his calling as an ambulance driver. He said there were thousands of fighters but only one driver, and that solitary vocation gave him a sense of purpose.

Life here is punctuated by the pounding thuds of falling shells that come without warning. Their timings are irregular, to increase the chances of casualty or death. Your first warning is the first explosion. If you're lucky, it will have fallen far, giving you plenty of time to find shelter. If you are unlucky, you are killed where you stand. If your condition is too critical to be treated in the crude clinics inside rebel territory, you're taken to the Turkish border in the back of Mahmood's ambulance, where indifferent border guards and security parameters may or may not let you through.

"They are pushing people to hate the Free Syrian Army. It is punishment for supporting the revolution," says Mahmood.

They are failing. People do not hate the war, the revolutionaries, or their Islamist mujahedin allies. They hate the regime. They hate Iran. They hate Hezbollah. They hate the Shia. And they hate America for standing by and allowing this to happen. Innocents who might have been, for want of better terms, moderate have become polarized. And Mahmood sees them daily as he races toward the bombing sites, watching the regime's brutality hardening face after face.

Mahmood helps, but he is also a symbol to both sides. "The ambulance makes the regime angry—because it shells people to kill them, and the ambulance saves their souls."

In January Mahmood found himself on the front line at the rebel-encircled military base of Wadi al-Deif, 15 kilometers from his home. An unconscious Libyan fighter for the Free Syrian Army was in the back of the ambulance, his leg blown off from shelling. After a close call with falling rockets near the front, Mahmood was on his way to the Turkish border crossing when a helicopter gunship began tailing them, unleashing staccato bursts of machine-gun fire across rocky hills. Mahmood swerved off the road and into a copse of trees, shielding the ambulance from the helicopter's vision. For two hours, they waited, while the Libyan bled, before the gunship finally gave up the hunt and Mahmood was able to continue on toward Turkey. His patient survived.

But Mahmood's benevolence had been damaged. Asked whether he would pick up a wounded regime solider in his ambulance, Mahmood says yes: "Just to let him die."

THE DESIRE to live a normal life is strong in Khan Assobl. Stores are still open, crops are harvested, and the call to prayer continues to bring out the faithful. Still, the fear of death from above does not abate. Planes and helicopters circle above, and the thuds of shells echo across concrete buildings and stone quarries every day. This year, out of the town's remaining population of about 6,000, nearly 30 have been killed from shelling. Nearby, in the ruined city of Maaret al-Numan, the figures are much higher. Locals say that 10 percent of the town's population has been killed by artillery bombardment.

"One little shell is still a lot. It can kill a whole family," says Dr. Safah.

And so the quest for normalcy has driven many here, literally, underground. Mahmood takes me to meet Abu Alaa. Abu Alaa's neighbors called him crazy when he started digging in his garden 18 months ago. Each day with a hammer and chisel he chipped away at the hard, thick stone in the ground outside his home. First for a few hours a day, then whole days, his strange behavior straining his relationship with his family after he enlisted his 13- and 15-year-old sons to take shifts burrowing deep into the earth. The town was still under the control of the regime Army at the time. Clashes at the Syrian Army checkpoint meters from his house had left him plagued with a dark, dreadful vision of the terror to come.

"I know what the regime is. I expected that they would use everything to kill people," he says.

When the shelling started last year, it gave meaning to his fears and conviction to his focus: shelter. Abu Alaa and his boys began to dig faster. After an entire year of dust, broken rock, and hammering, he had completed his task: a cavernous bomb bunker to protect his family from the horrors he had believed would come.

"They don't call me crazy anymore; now all the other people are crazy," he says in a voice that lingers with the grave lilt of the town stoner, an impression amplified by his hand-rolled tobacco, self-whittled cigarette holders, and lateral thinking. A stone staircase leads underground, and Scooby-Doo plays on the television in the subterranean living room. Cushions line the cool floor. There is a mantelpiece for the telephone and a deeper bedroom in the back for when the planes and helicopters circle overhead. Abu Alaa's family's life has been transplanted beneath the rock of his one-story concrete home above.

"What is this, the Four Seasons?" says a friend of Mahmood's as we are led into Abu Alaa's cave. We sit to drink coffee, roll cigarettes, and admire the work. The pops and thuds of artillery are a strange comfort. They are a reminder of what has been built with this cave: protection. "I have made my sons safe," Abu Alaa says. "I am very happy."

Many others in town have followed Abu Alaa's example and begun living in freshly dug caves. If they have the time, money, or familial manpower, they can create a space that seems like a home, endowed with electricity, telephones, televisions, and soft bedding. If not, at least they have a place to hide when the shells fall. Across Khan Assobl, a bulldozer can be seen making holes, sculpting stone to provide makeshift shelter. Abu Bilal, a once prosperous man, built his family's cave after he was unable to continue living in his home. A regime airstrike killed his neighbors, damaged his house, and cost his son his leg. The family now spends most of their time in their shelter below the shell of their former house, a cave masquerading as a home. "Civilized people fly to the moon, and we Syrians go underneath the ground."

Darkness falls on Khan Assobl. We are in Mahmood's house for dinner alongside Dr. Safah. Mahmood's five children scramble over his prone frame, eating cherries after a fine hefty dinner of meze, lamb, and liver kebabs. This war, filthy as it is, has not yet shattered the grace of heartfelt Syrian hospitality. Dr. Safah tells the story of Waji Abdullah over iced coffee that Mahmood learned to make when working as a laborer in Greece. It is one of a thousand similar tales in a place where war stories have become daily dinnertime conversation. Waji, 60, had been visiting the neighboring village when a rebel ambush struck a regime truck carrying a battery of Grad rockets with rocket-propelled grenades. The operation was a success, and the truck ignited, launching stray rockets erratically across the countryside. Waji, who had spent 15 hard years in prison for suspected anti-government activity under the rule of Hafez al-Assad, President Bashar al-Assad's father, was petrified. He ran the eight kilometers home as fast as his old legs would carry him. Later that night, he died, apparently from fear and exhaustion.

When the first shell of the night drops, Mahmood's youngest girl, 2 years old, looks around the room for assurance with two wide eyes, one crimson red from shrapnel damage when a tank round tore through Mahmood's home last year.

"There is no problem," says Mahmood. "It's ours, going to Qarmid," a Syrian Army base a dozen kilometers from Khan Assobl.

"But they will fire back," says Dr. Safah.

Dark smoke rises above the Qarmid brick factory, and Mahmood's radio crackles. "Shtaallit il nar, shtaallit il nar, shtaallit il nar." They've started a fire.

Fire back the regime does. The response is furious, again the relentless collective punishment. Under a mosquito net in the home of Mahmood's cousin, I lie awake at night, hearing the shells fall closer. The television, showing the pro-revolution Orient channel, flickers images of U.N. Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon's speeches amid a montage of murderous government acts; it is set over the theme of HBO's Band of Brothers—"How many more times can we condemn them ... We are deeply concerned ... Such violence is unacceptable"—until the television turns off. I lost count of the shells that night. A friend later tells me he stopped counting at 150.

Morning. Mahmood gets the kind of ordinary call any ambulance driver might get and, yet, a call he was not expecting. A pregnant woman has gone into early labor; the shelling could not have helped. I drive to meet Mahmood at a field hospital with the graffiti "Your clean hands and noble hearts produce new life" scrawled on a wall. There is another doctor here; as we talk, another interview interrupted by shelling. And another little boy, bloodied, to be carried in someone's arms.

"The shelling is daily and random," the doctor says, asking that he and the hospital remain nameless, out of fear of targeted regime airstrikes to kill him and his patients. He takes long heavy drags from the cigarette between his thumb and middle finger. He laughs, "I only smoke after shelling. And before. I smoke 30 a day."

A Child Called Tragedy Al JAZEERA AMERICA

SINJAR, Iraq — Khodeda Abbas is one of the saved. His wife went into labor coming off the mountain and needed medical assistance right away. The couple had just arrived at a shabby medical tent 20 kilometers from Mount Sinjar, along with hundreds of other refugees rescued in tractors, buses and cattle trucks. The drivers were all volunteers, men with enough gasoline and empathy to cross the desert and take exhausted strangers from Iraq into Syria over a border made only of dust. The tent had run out of medical supplies three days earlier.

It was here that Abbas smoked the best cigarette of his life, he said, after becoming a father to the sleeping baby in the milk crate by his feet. He named the child Farman. “It means ‘the tragedy,’” he said, “to remind him of where he came from.”

The tragedy in question began nine nights earlier, on Aug. 3. News of it arrived through the screams of the neighbor banging on Abbas’s door in the village of Siba Sheikh Khidr, on the outskirts of Sinjar town in northwestern Iraq: “Peshmerga have left. Daash are coming.” (Peshmerga are Kurdish security forces; Daash refers to the Islamic State, or IS — the armed Sunni fighters who are seeking to establish an independent state crossing the current borders of Iraq and Syria.)

In recent weeks, IS forces have advanced deeper into Syria and overtaken cities in northern Iraq, killing, imprisoning and evicting those who don’t submit to their cause. Kurdish forces in both countries have also been taking advantage of the current chaos to expand their territories. Here, the border between northwestern Iraq and northeastern Syria has effectively disappeared. Alliances are shifting and national identities are being discarded; many are turning to those they fear the least.

That night in Siba Sheikh Khidr, Abbas said, he grabbed his Kalashnikov rifle and told his wife to get ready in case she had to leave without him. There were reasons to be fearful. Like most of his neighbors, Abbas is Yazidi. Followers of the ancient pre-Islamic religion, an estimated 700,000 globally, hold a special veneration for a fallen angel, Melek Taus, whose remorseful tears, they say, extinguished the fires of hell and brought the angel back to God. IS fighters and others call Melek Taus "Satan" and Yazidis “devil worshippers.” The Yazidis, like many minorities in the Middle East, have long lived near mountains, seeking safety in their remoteness.

The cell-phone network was overloaded, so Abbas ran to his brother’s house and told him to gather as many men as he could. According to interviews with four survivors, perhaps 1,000 men — butchers, bakers, carpenters, young and old, most of them civilians — assembled near the military checkpoint in Siba Sheikh Khidr to form the only line of defense between IS and the city of Sinjar. Most of the Iraqi and peshmerga security forces that guarded the checkpoint in Siba Sheikh Khidr had fled, survivors said. The only ones who remained were Yazidi.

Abbas, a soldier in the Iraqi Army, and his brother, a member of the federal police, were among them. “We have to build a wall between Daash and Sinjar,” Abbas told his brother, the two of them filling empty rice sacks with stones, which they then used to barricade the road to town.

Of all the bombings in Iraq this past decade, Siba Sheikh Khidr had seen the worst. In 2007, multiple suicide truck bombs killed more than 500 people there in what is considered to be the singe deadliest attack of the Iraq War. After the attack, the Iraqi government constructed a dirt berm perimeter to protect the town, making the only passage to the heartland of the Yazidis a single road. That night, Abbas and the others took positions on the berm around that road, waiting for the IS convoy to arrive.

The IS fighters came in pickup trucks at first — more than 20, survivors said, each mounted with a Soviet-era machine gun known as the dushka. Like many Iraqi civilians, the people of Siba Sheikh Khidr kept Kalashnikovs in their homes for protection. That night, the villagers used them to fire on the incoming Daash convoy, forcing it off the road.

When, after three hours of clashes, Daash pickup trucks failed to break through the Yazidis’ defenses, fighters in Siba Sheikh Khidr said they saw four U.S.-made Humvees driving toward them from the direction of the Syrian border. The armored vehicles had likely fallen into IS hands in June, when the Sunni fighters overran Mosul, Iraq’s second-largest city. “The Humvees ran over our barricade and opened the road for the pickup trucks,” said Faisal Qassim, one of the survivors. “Without the Humvees, we could have stopped them.”

By 8 a.m., after five hours of fighting, the Battle of Sinjar was lost. With no military assistance from Iraq’s central or Kurdish governments, the Yazidis had failed to hold the road and prevent Sinjar from falling to the Islamic State. They had, however, bought their brethren precious time to prepare an evacuation. As the Humvees drove past the barricades and on to Sinjar, Abbas said, survivors from the battle gathered their families and fled. The only way out was up and over Mount Sinjar, a mountain range more than 60 miles long and almost 5,000 feet high.

Tens of thousands of Yazidis would be stranded in there in the coming days, surrounded by IS fighters and facing death from malnutrition, dehydration and exposure. On Aug. 8, the United States launched airstrikes to repel IS forces and dropped pallets of food and water. But it was a group of Syrian Kurdish fighters known as the People’s Protection Units, or YPG, who fought through IS-controlled territory in Syria to establish a safe corridor to rescue many of the Yazidis from the mountain. The YPG fighters are the Syrian brand of the Kurdistan Worker’s Party, or PKK, which has been designated a terrorist group by the United States. They are seeking to establish an independent Kurdish state in northeastern Syria.

The civil war that has fractured since Syria since 2011 has provided the YPG an opportunity to dramatically expand its territory. The only problem, however, has been that the borders of a new independent Syrian Kurdish “Rojava” — or “West” in Kurdish — are now being challenged by another opportunistic organization also trying to carve out a country from the wreckage of Syria’s civil war: IS. By August of last year, the YPG and IS were at war with one another.

Abbas and other Yazidis who were assisted by the YPG are now shifting their allegiance to the group. Since coming off the mountain, hundreds of Yazidi have received training at YPG military training camps; some have already returned to Mount Sinjar to fight as new recruits for the YPG. “I belong to the YPG because they were the only ones who would protect us,” Abbas said. “From this moment, I am not Iraqi.” In the great plains and highlands of a part of the Middle East once known by the Arabic name Jazira, citizenship, for Abbas and many others, has become a choice forced upon them by armed groups attempting to carve out new ethno-national states.

In Qamishli, a city in northeastern Syria, an armed man stopped our car. He was clean shaven and wearing the camouflaged uniform of the Syrian regime. “Don’t speak,” said Bahjat Muhammad, the driver, before rolling down the window. The city is home to the headquarters of the YPG, but also to the only checkpoints in the area still under the control of President Bashar al-Assad's Syria.

At checkpoints across the Middle East, a password exists that can take one safely through to the other side. Said forcefully enough, it will confirm one’s identity better than any badge, stamp or signature on a piece of paper. In Baghdad, the password is “As’aib,” for Asaib Ahl al-Haq, a Shia death squad with total government impunity. In Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley, the word is “Hezbollah.” In Qamishli, that password is “guerrilla.” Translation: “I’m with the PKK. Get the f--- out of my way.” The men at the regime checkpoint stepped back, waving us through.

“Allowing the regime to stay is useful,” said Ayman Mizowaya, an officer in the Asaish, the YPG’s intelligence agency, when explaining the contradictions of competing statehood in a city where a 15-foot statue of Hafez al-Assad, father of the current president and the Syrian leader for three decades, is watched over by the smiling faces of female fighters on YPG recruitment posters. On a recent visit to his office, he told me to listen. I didn’t hear anything. “Exactly,” he said. In Qamishli, “there is no bombing or shelling.” The regime’s presence is a symbol of tacit cooperation between the YPG and the Syrian regime. It helps maintain stability in Qamashli, deterring threats to the YPG and allowing both the regime and the Syrian Kurdish fighters to focus their military attention on other factions in Syria’s civil war, including IS.

Although the YPG promises to bring a radically new kind of state to the Middle East, its offices looked just like those of any other regime in the region, down to the pink plastic flowers visitors stare at while awaiting the bureaucratic approvals that punctuate life across this region. As an employee of the Asaish since last year, Mizowaya is a supporter of the Kurdish struggle for independence. Yet he is an Assyrian Christian, not a Kurd.

An increasing number of Assyrian Christians in northeastern Syria are, like Mizowaya, joining the YPG. Mizowaya said that IS fighters would likely execute him if he failed to convert to Islam and that the Syrian regime as just as capable of brutality. Meanwhile, he said, there are no longer any moderate Syrian rebels left in the area to join. “We have to choose one side,” Mizowaya said, and “the Kurds are who I fear the least.”

It’s a sentiment felt by members of most groups living across the Syrian-Iraqi borderlands with the important exception of one: Iraqi Sunni Muslim Arabs.

On Aug. 7, the day before the United States launched airstrikes to stop the advance of IS forces on the Iraqi Kurdish capital of Erbil, a white BMW drove toward the city from the Nineveh plains. The plains had just fallen to IS fighters, bringing the Sunni forces within 25 miles of the political and economic heart of Iraqi Kurdistan. Like other vehicles fleeing IS forces, the car slowed to a stop at a checkpoint near hundreds of Kurdish peshmerga militiamen who were scrambling to set up a line of defense.

Religion is clearly stated on Iraqi identification cards and many of those fleeing the Nineveh plains were card-carrying Christians — but not all. Peshmerga at the checkpoint asked for IDs, often waving vehicles through in a matter of seconds. There was, however, some sort of problem with the BMW.

The driver, who looked about 60, was dragged out of the car’s open window and punched in the face. An angry crowd of peshmerga and volunteers gathered around him, pushing him onto the road and kicking him while he lay on the ground. They opened the BMW’s trunk to search it and found it was empty — until, that is, they threw the bleeding driver inside and drove away. “He’s Daash,” said one man in civilian clothes, by way of explanation. The proof? “He’s Arab.”

Before the Battle of Sinjar, IS had only managed to conquer parts of Iraq with a significant Sunni Arab population. It had done so by capitalizing on the grievances of Iraq’s Sunnis. After the U.S. invasion of Iraq in 2003, Sunnis were sidelined and purged from positions of power by Nouri al-Maliki, Iraq’s Shia prime minister for eight years until he agreed to relinquish power this month. His government has also been accused of systematically targeting, imprisoning and torturing tens of thousands of Sunni men and women.

And, in recent months, the Maliki government has sanctioned the re-emergence of armed Shia militias on the streets of Iraq, providing them with government badges and the authority to kill. Last Friday, during prayer time in a Sunni mosque in Diyala province, northeast of Baghdad, suspected Shia militiamen fired on Sunni worshippers, killing more than 70 people. By the time IS fighters began seizing cities from the control of Baghdad’s Shia-dominated government, Sunnis across Iraq were referring to them as “the revolutionaries.”

Abu Hamoudi is among those Sunnis who’ve turned their support to IS. Of the five competing states now fighting to establish territory in northern Iraq and eastern Syria — two internationally recognized (Iraq and Syria), two Kurdish (YPG and Iraqi Kurdistan), and one Sunni (IS) — the latter is the most elusive. But reached by phone on a recent August day, Hamoudi, now the Islamic State’s emir in Mosul’s eastern Al Zahra quarter, started asking questions before I could ask my own.

“Why, when the Christians left Mosul, all the media talked about them?” he said. “And nowadays they are all talking about Yazidis and Sinjar. Why didn’t they talk about Anbar and Fallujah? Why didn’t the media concentrate on them? Why? Because they are Sunnis? Why didn’t they make the Sunni case important?”

Hamoudi started to run through a long list of grievances against the media, the United States and Maliki. Like many local leaders in the IS ranks, Abu Hamoudi is a former prisoner. He said he was imprisoned and tortured under Maliki’s rule, targeted for being a former Baathist officer in Saddam Hussein’s army. There, in Mosul’s Badush prison, he said, a Shia prison guard called Jasim, nicknamed the monster, beat him regularly, eventually fracturing his spine. The product of a time that predates Al Qaeda and IS, Hamoudi did not speak the language of religious dogma. His words were more grounded in the language of Sunni supremacism. And they offered, with brutal simplicity, the Islamic State’s solution to a multiethnic Iraq: submit or be extinguished.

“The Islamic State has gotten rid of sectarianism,” he said. “Now there are no Shia. There are no Kurds … no Shabak, no Yazidi, no Christian. And we are all Sunni.”

 

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